How To Open Mr2 Engine Bay

This part of the engine driblet procedure is a little more intensive than the drop prep. From here on out, it'south helpful to have friend to lend a hand. As always, be sure to have the proper tools for the job. If yous need something, go to a store and go it. Be very careful supporting the motorcar. A good jack, and gear up of jackstands are a must.

1.Those are 2 2×12 boards 2.5 feet long. When raising the car up and downwards, it rolls back and forth. The more level the car when doing the bodily drib the easier to get it out. Thanks to Carl Crawford for this idea.

Wheels nether the machine when possible are a good idea in example something actually bad happens. This is a good time to apply jack stands under the rear of the automobile (in front end of the rear wheels, not pictured).

2. Time to remove the axles. This will involve many steps. First, fix the parking restriction, and take the rear wheels off.

A: Accept the cotter pins and beam finish caps off.

Parking brake still on correct? It'due south 32mm socket and breaker bar time. Jeez.

This might help then the socket doesn't slip off like information technology did on me multiple times. The pressure from the jack keeps the socket on the bolt where information technology would normally desire to torque/twist off.

B: OPTIONALLY Remove the rear brakes. You lot do not have to practise this if you are non irresolute your brakes out. I was putting 93 style brakes on, then now was a good time. Skip to C: if you do not need to do this.

This is a little trick to become more leverage out of your wrenches I learned from a local MR2-NW guy, Jay Atienza. Obviously he learned it in the Air Force. It'south probably mutual knowledge???

Bolt removed.

Lift the caliper up, and push it towards the engine to remove from the bracket.

It pushes straight off just you might accept to do a niggling twisting to go at that place.

Remove the rear brake bracket. 2 bolts.

Remove the discs, the showtime commodities y'all took off the calipers can be screwed into the two small holes to get the disc to pop off the assembly if necessary, see pic…

C: Disconnect sway bar from the end links. 14mm wrench and hex wrench.

D: Disconnect balljoint from lower suspension arm. 2 17mm bolts.

E: Disconnect adjustment arm from brake assembly.

F: Pop axles through the brake associates. Use a piece of wood and hammer to hit the axles direct towards the engine. This may have a lot of hits, proceed at information technology, it volition free up, and pop through. Thou: Remove right paw (rider) axle. There are a few ways to practise this, the i I used was to remove the axle carrier and just pull the axle out. This first pic is looking through the crossmember at the back of the engine. From below, remove the following

1: Ii carrier bolts (removed already)

2: Support brackets nut (removed already)

3: Brusque support subclass end commodities

iv: Long back up subclass end bolt

Now, in one case the subclass is loose (pop information technology off the block with a screwdriver and so it's free) just pull on the entire axle assembly, and information technology will dance out of the tranny.

Here's the whole affair. I think this fashion is much easier than the BGB way. Thank you to Shane Craddock for the thought on this.

H: Unbolt rear motor mount through bolt.

I: If the car has ABS, detatch ABS line from the crossmember. 1 10mm bolt on each side. Also, be careful to move the ABS line higher up the swaybar, or you might harm it when you drop the crossmember.

J: Unbolt assembly arm from motorcar body.

The left arrow points to a crossmember bolt that'southward coming upwards next. The arrow on the right shows you a better shot of the assembly arm.

K: Fourth dimension to drib the crossmember. Break the bolts loose, but practice not take them out notwithstanding.

Now is a good time to go another person to assistance, or utilize a jack to support the crossmember. Undo the 4 bolts the remainder of the way. Lower the crossmember and pull it out.

3: Here's two pics showing y'all what yous should have…

That'due south correct, we're leaving the drivers side axle attatched during the driblet. We'll become information technology out later.

Get ready to drib

I got this 1,000 lb chapters furniture dolly from Home Depot for $nineteen.95. The oil pan should sit on the right side, and the tranny has two spots that volition sit on the left side. With just these 3 spots, the engine will be balanced. Get the engine hoist hooked up (you're probably going to need a load balancer in betwixt the hoist and the engine to keep the sides even).

Some other view. Notice the blue slave cylinder hanging (we'll remove it in a minute). Exist sure to support information technology then that the hoses are not being stressed.

iv. Remove Slave Cylinder and Front Motor Mount through commodities and Tranny side of the motor mountain

Time to get the slave cylinder off the tranny otherwise y'all'll have to cut the lines which would non make things whatever easier on you lot after.

The Slave Cylinder can be challenging to remove and install. It'due south hard to run into the bolts, and to attain them.
At that place are only 4 bolts to worry virtually. In the past I've e'er seen people (myself included) undoing most of the pictured bolts merely because you tin can't run into what's holding it on from above or beneath very well. The meridian two only concur information technology downward to the tranny. The bottom two sandwich it to the front motor mount and the tranny. The motor mount is not pictured in this film.

The next few pics are of an install, simply will still exist helpful, only do the opposite. Under the car, lining up that bolt hole on the right to make things easier.

First step to installing it, temporarily mountain the two lower bolts without the engine mount installed.

Hither you can see the upper commodities on the drivers side being tightened down with a small wrench and minor socket. This is to give you an idea where the bolt is.

Same as above.

Another picture show of that bolt.

Here'south the upper passenger side commodities being tightened downward. Notice the longer socket than the drivers side bolt.

Another angle of the passenger side bolt.

Finally, remove the lower two bolts which were loosely on there, and put the motor mountain on, and so re-install the two lower bolts.

Remove the through bolt for the front motor mount.

On the left, the through bolt is removed, and on the right in the tranny side of the motor mount in that location are two bolts that due to lack of space must be undone with a wrench. The reason to pull these off is because they are holding the slave cylinder to the tranny.

5. Remove drivers side motor mount bolts

From beneath, these bolts hold the tranny to the tranny side of the motor mount.

Can't remember what this one was???????

The left two arrows point to the top view of the bolts nosotros saw from below two pictures agone. The bolts on the right hold a stay bar, and a mount for the speedo cable.

Some other view with bolts loose.

6. Remove passenger side mountain completely

At present nosotros're attacking the passenger side motor mountain. We ended up undoing all v bolts.

Here's are some more shots to show yous what needs to come off.

Start with the ii bottom nuts (easily accessed from beneath with a long extension). Then the three top bolts.

Finally the through bolt (which tin come up out fifty-fifty with the intercooler in place).

7. Dropping the engine

So, just slowly lower the engine. If it gets caught upwardly somewhere, raise it back upwards a petty, and run into what the problem is. Take care of the problem :). Nosotros had to milk shake the chains a fleck to swing the engine effectually and get it unstuck from this and that. As well, be sure you lot're clearing the Ac compressor if you lot have i.

Here's some shots to help show the residual points.

In one case the engine is downwards, yous may have to raise the car up to become it out. To do this safely, get a skilful thick chain that the rear crossmember bolts volition slide through, hook information technology and then that it goes bolt through chain into rear crossmember pigsty – concatenation goes to hoist up top – chain goes to bolt on other side rear crossmember hole. And so use a towel or some quondam carpeting to keep the pigment from getting scratched by the chain, and raise the machine up slowly. Lookout man what the front wheels are doing (rolling backwards) don't let them autumn off the boards (if yous used them). You want the forepart wheels gratuitous so that the hoist isn't pulling on the machine enough to cause information technology to leap forrard when you lower onto the jackstands. Heighten the jackstands up to the new acme, so lower the automobile downwards to the jackstands…. (Thank you Carl Crawford for the thought). At present hopefully you have a nice dolly to make this easier, pull the engine on out.

Ahhh, wasn't that easy?

At present you could get out it on the dolly (or whatever you lowered it onto) or you could put information technology on a stand. To get it on a stand you have pull the tranny, pressure level plate, and flywheel (well, y'all could leave the flywheel on, just why would you desire to?). Then you gotta get some bigger bolts to agree the block to the stand. This volition be covered a petty on the tear down page.

This documentation in no mode replaces the Toyota MR2 Repair Manuals. The purpose of this content is just to provide supplementary information to fellow MR2 enthusiasts. Midship Runabout and its contributing authors will non be held responsible for whatever injury or damages that may occur as the result of practicing any of the methods or procedures described within this website. Article and photo submissions are property of the contributing author.

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